An unplanned day in Shrewsbury

Shrewsbury isn't a bad place to end up to be honest. It has an interesting history and contains over 600 listed buildings. The town centre has quite a few examples of timber framed buildings, dating back to the 15th and 16th century, although obviously, due to the rentless march of capitalism, most are now soullessly occupied by chain coffee shops and restaurants. The abbey still has the original Norman archways inside, and the western tower, while not as old, dates back to the 1300s. The remains of Saint Winefride, the daughter of a 7th century Welsh prince, were interred here, but the shrine to her was destroyed along with much of the abbey during the Reformation. According to legend, she took a vow of celibacy, dedicating her life to God and the service of others, but a nobleman persisted in making forceful advances towards her and she fled. He pursued her and cut off her head. Don't worry though, because a well of pure water sprang from where her head fell and the Nobleman dropped down dead instantly, as the ground opened up and swallowed his body. Winefride's uncle then placed her head back on her neck, and she continued to live for another 15 years. Fucking mental.

The Abbey

Evidence of the Reformation

Being only 9 miles from the border, it's seen its fair share of England v Wales action over the years, and in 1403, the all-England Battle of Shrewsbury took place just north of the town, now appropriately and respectfully commemorated by the Battlefield Enterprise Park. Here, the forces of Henry IV defeated Henry "Hotspur" Percy's rebel army. I guess Hotspur is just an unlucky name.

Later, during the civil war, Shrewsbury was a Royalist stronghold and the Golden Cross Hotel, as it is now known, was a popular meeting place for them (if you believe the plaque outside) until Parliamentary forces took the town. Aided by a Royalist traitor, they were allowed access to the town via the St Mary's Water Gate, now also known as Traitor's Gate. The Traitor's Gate Brasserie sounded like a cool place to go for lunch, first for its name, but also because it was made up of three underground cellars, uncovered at the start of the 1800s, where the skeletons of those buried there after the Battle of Shrewsbury were found.

Alley to the entertaining Traitor's Gate Brasserie

It wasn't the best food in the world, but it was most certainly the strangest place I've ever eaten, and definitely the best food in the strangest place I've ever eaten. The main menu was split into Turkish, Greek and Moroccan food, and the lunch menu was English and Italian - definitely a place that needs to decide what it wants to be. The owner seemed nice, but definitely leaning to the wrong side of weirdo; overly apologetic about every tiny thing, he was a bit of an enigma to talk to. Panini was listed on the lunch menu, but no fillings were mentioned. When I asked, he said I could have whatever I wanted in it, but I pointed out that the menu didn't specify from what ingredients to choose. He insisted that it was because I could have anything I wanted. 'Sugar Puffs?' I asked, half joking, half to prove a point. 'No, not quite that far', he replied, unphased, then...nothing, no further clues! Not up for a life-sapping guessing game, I took a stab at ham and cheese being an option. It was pretty fantastic. A lot of paninis tend to be light on the filling and look a bit sorry for themselves, but this was full, hearty, and the seasoned chips that came with it were superb.

Waiting for my food, I heard him say to some walk-ins that there was a bit of a wait as they were very busy at the moment. Looking around, I could see there was just me and two other tables being served - hardly a lunchtime rush. I also heard him trying to describe his table numbering system to a bewildered new waitress, which confused the arse off me too; he seemed like a guy that considers himself organised and business-like, but has thrown logic and sanity out the window and is probably frustratingly stubborn when it comes to suggestion and reason. I don't know why I'm laying in to him so much; he was a nice guy, but if I was a new starter, I think he would have done my head in. Anyway, what I'm saying is, if you find yourself in Shrewsbury, GO - the food is awesome, and the service, mental.